Settings becomes the principal factor in determining the overall shape of the ring when you're shopping for a ring set with more than one stone. At Novi Jewelers, the choices are varied and endless. Pick from our selection of designs or special order from our manufacturers.
When you're shopping for a ring set with more than one stone, the way the stones are placed in the setting is what gives the ring its design and appeal. Whether you're choosing a solitaire or a ring with a number of stones, each setting technique creates a look that is part of the overall style of the ring. You may like one ring rather than another simply because of the setting technique used.
Once you recognize these differences, you'll be prepared to analyze each ring at a glance and make a choice based on those elements that best please your taste.
The prong setting, the one most often used to
hold a solitaire. Prong setting puts the emphasis on the
stones and not the metal. The purpose of any setting is to
hold the diamonds securely in the mounting and at the same
time allow light to enter the diamonds for maximum brilliance.
This is obviously a delicate balancing act. The more metal
used to hold the diamonds, the more secure they are; the less
metal used, the greater the ability of the diamond to reflect
light. For this reason, platinum is often the metal of choice
for diamond solitaires. It is both dense and strong and very thin wires of
it are sufficient to hold the diamond securely in place. The
diamond may be raised high up above the shank to give it a
larger, more prominent appearance, with only a suggestion of
metal showing.
In such a setting, the prongs are attached to the central
setting of a ring, known as the head or basket. Each prong
extends upward and outward from the head, arching over the
diamond to form a secure grip.
The ideal prong tapers to a rounded point. It should be
smoothly finished, diminishing any chance of the prong
snagging the threads of your clothes. The prongs should also
be placed at key points of the stone, typically at four
corners or at four, five or six points evenly spaced around
the stone, to offer security without interfering with the
stone's brilliance.
The prong setting can also be found in a few variations. One
such variation, called the V-prong setting, functions on the
same basic concept, but it uses prongs which, when viewed from
above, appear to be curved into a V-shape. The right angle of
the wire is cut to allow the corner of the gem to rest and be
held by the wire.
Another variation on the prong setting is called the common
prong. Here, the metal wire is grooved at the top, and is used
to hold two gemstones by their side (girdle). This technique
is used to give a close side-by-side gemstone relationship
without the metallic interference of too many prongs.
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If the flush setting is subtle, the bezel setting is its
bolder sister. A bezel is a collar of precious metal that
wraps around the diamond.
The bezel is attached to the top of the ring and stands up
above it, adding height and another dimension to the setting.
Although solid bezels have a very traditional look, the bezel
may be 'split' into two sections, arcing around just part of
the diamond. This is called a half bezel.
This simple change suddenly opens up the setting and gives it
a totally modern look. The technique may also be used on a
fancy cut diamond -- with an arc of precious metal around the
wide curve of a pear shape and another, V-shaped section of
precious metal embracing the narrow end.
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The channel setting is also used to set round diamonds.
Channel setting offers a sleek, elegant appearance.
Setting round diamonds into channels leaves small spaces
closest to the metal bars of the channel. By choosing round
diamonds, the designer creates a clean line of stones, yet one
with greater brilliance than is possible with baguettes. This
also offers a less restrained look, and may be more suitable
when a ring has a round center stone.
Channel setting is also used when there is no center stone at
all. The placement of baguettes around an entire band is a
beautiful choice for a wedding band, one that goes well with a
matching ring set with a diamond solitaire.
Channel setting protects the diamonds extremely well. None of
the edges are exposed, therefore are not subject to hard
knocks or general wear and tear.
A variation of the channel set is called the bar channel.
Here, the metal plates rise to top level of the stone, and so
are visible between the stones. This gives a slightly
different visual effect, and can be very striking if the
contrast between the metal and the stone is significant.
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When the surface of a ring appears to be covered with tiny
diamonds, the technique is called Pavé which means paved.
It's an apt name because the surface looks a bit like a very
pretty street paved with cobblestones.
Tiny diamonds are placed in small holes that have been drilled
out of the ring shank. On a band that does not taper across
the top, each diamond should be exactly the same size. The
diamonds are placed in rows, but in such a way that they fill
as much of the space of the surface as is possible without
actually touching. The more precisely cut the diamonds, the
better the final appearance of the ring.
Each tiny diamond, weighing just a few points, is fully cut
with 58 facets. Though small in size, each stone contributes
to the overall, shimmering look of the design. After it is
positioned in its hole, tiny bits of metal from the surface of
the shank are pushed over the edge of the diamond, forming
tiny beads to hold the stone in place.
Pavé is a demanding technique that is most successfully
accomplished in the hands of a patient and extremely talented
jeweler.
The cost of a Pavé-set diamond ring is in the hand setting of
the diamonds; as such, it is often much more a determinant of
price than the cost of the diamonds and the gold. To evaluate
a ring that is Pavé set, look at the overall design. Are the
diamonds laid out in such a way that the entire surface of the
ring looks like a glittering carpet of gems? That's the sign
of a well-designed and well-made ring.
If a section of the ring is Pavé-set, with certain areas
tapering to a point, the diamonds should diminish in size as
the Pavé area narrows. This requires the most precise
selection of diamonds.
All of these elements add to the time needed to make a ring,
and -- as the saying goes -- time is money. The value of a Pavé-set
ring is not as obvious as one set with a major solitaire; but
when you appreciate the work needed to produce one, you'll
also appreciate a fair price when you see it.
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The cluster setting is another variation on the theme of
choosing a ring with a number of smaller diamonds. There are
cluster rings with the stones arranged in the form of a
stylized flower, or those done as an abstract arrangement of
stones.
Cluster rings are usually multi-level, with considerable
height above the hand. The arrangement of stones can be quite
open and airy looking, or it may be more tightly arranged. The
choice is a matter of taste, but the shape of the finger can
also play a role in making that choice.
Remember that the openwork design lengthens the look of the
finger and the hand, while the more closed design draws the
eye toward the hand.
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The same beading technique may be used on a ring in which the
diamonds are spaced slightly apart. In this instance the gold
work is much more of a statement and a design element.
These beads, larger and more prominent, may be engraved or
decorated. The diamonds may also be slightly larger in size.
By varying the size of the stones and the size of the
beadwork, the designer creates a totally different look.
Before you decide your design choice, consider the impact you want your ring to make. Are you
looking for the dazzling glitter of tightly set Pavé -- or
the more decorative look of bead-set, larger diamonds? Both
are beautiful, and the choice is yours.
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The flush setting or burnish setting is one of the subtlest diamond-setting
techniques. Stones are sunk into the mounting until they are
nearly level or flush with the surface. Only the table of the
stone and a bit of the upper pavilion facets show.
This technique seems to go against everything we know about
diamonds in relation to light, but it's become quite a popular
setting. It's a very subtle look, and one that appeals to the
woman who likes the idea of tiny, glittering bits of light
twinkling like stars in the sky.
The flush setting is also used for larger stones, offering
great protection and a modern look.
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One of the classic multi-stone ring designs, the ballerina,
derives its beauty from the placement of tapered baguettes
which flow around a center stone to form a 'tutu', much like
the short
flared skirt worn by ballet dancers. There are ballerina rings
in which baguettes are set in an undulating curve that
literally emulates the tutu skirt of a dancer.
Each of the small diamonds may be held in prong settings,
which give the slender rectangular diamonds the maximum chance
to sparkle. The ballerina ring looks best on an average or
larger-than-average hand. Like many multi-stone rings, it
rises above the hand and has considerable dimension. For this
reason it could overwhelm a small hand, so be advised.
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Tiffany is famous for its Tiffany setting
for diamonds, a six-prong, sturdy, secure mounting for a
solitaire diamond--usually a large one. We offer a
"Tiffany-like," six-prong head to set a solitaire diamond
engagement or cocktail ring.
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Invisible-set diamonds are placed very closely together, with
the metal hidden under the stones, giving them the appearance
of a continuous, uninterrupted surface. Since the metal of the
setting is not seen, this type of setting is an excellent way
to showcase the brilliance of the diamonds themselves. This
type of setting also allows an increased amount of light to
enter the stone, giving off more brilliance, since no prongs
or bezels impede the light’s entry.
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